Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Domaine Dujac, VOSNE-ROMANÉE, 1er Cru, 'Les Beaux Monts'
The 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru comes from a parcel between Tremblay and Leroy. It has a pleasing strictness on the nose that contrasts with the more flattering Charmes-Chambertin that precedes it. Black cherries, wild strawberries and crushed violets, there is an underlying mineralité that surfaces with aeration and a dab of black olive. The palate is well-balanced, with firm tannins on the entry. This a Les Beaux Monts with depth and volume, cracked black pepper and clove infusing the black fruit. It’s quite dense towards the finish but not sinewy. This is a Vosne-Romanée that I suspect may close up with time in bottle. 94-96 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).
The 2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts is another standout this year, mingling aromas of cherries and raspberries with notions of tea-smoked duck and exotic spices in a complex mélange. Medium to full-bodied, layered and vibrant, with a concentrated core of fruit underpinned by bright acids, it concludes with a youthfully chalky finish. 93-95 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2024).
The youngest vines are from1987 and they will be first to be pulled out (161/49 issues). A fresh and lively purple with good depth. There is energy here as well as being sensual. The bouquet is growing in stature. No one fruit takes the lead, but together they build a sensual mid palate, with a few spicy notes to bring up the finish. All perfectly in place and for the long term. ***** 94-96 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).
Drinking Window: 2028 - 2050