Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Maison Benjamin Leroux, MEURSAULT, 'Les Genevrières Dessus', Magnum (1500ml)
The 2022 Meursault Genevrières Dessus 1er Cru is only bottled en magnum. Side-by-side, there is a little more intensity and complexity compared to the regular cuvée, though it is only a marginal difference. The palate is well-balanced, with quite a lively, spicy opening. There's good depth and a keen line of acidity. Overtly nutty, almost smoky towards the finish, with moderate length. Afford this 3-5 years in bottle. 93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).
Lovely richness without being heavy, and boasts ripe apple, apricot and quince aromas, with heady notes of beeswax and white flowers, but there is a pronounced mineral note that also brings balance. The texture is dense and tightly wound for now. It is somewhat closed, but the substantial nature of the wine is evident and it should open in three to five years to blossom into a wine of true beauty. It is produced from a 0.12ha parcel, lightly crushed and fermented in 300-litre casks before bottling, strictly in magnum. Worth seeking out. 94 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter (2023).
Much more finesse here. A vivid pale lemon and lime colour. This bottling has the magical refinement of the best of Genevrières, as well as a promising body of flesh, permeated by mineral and herbal notes. A fine complete example. **** 93-96 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).
Drinking Window: 2028 - 2052