
Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'Clos des Ducs'
$411.70 inc. GST
Elegant and aristocratic, the Clos des Ducs from d'Angerville is a bit restrained initially but opens up with pomegranate and blackberry fruit aromas and flavours on the palate. The wine is not astringent, but one senses the massive structure and impressive length at first taste. Because of the stony limestone and white marl soils in this 2.15ha holding at the top of the premier cru slope, this complex wine will take time to unwind, but it will undoubtedly be worth the wait.
96 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.
Bright mid purple. Immediate distinction and discretion, impeccably balanced. Alpine strawberry, finesse with intensity, picked at impeccable ripeness, the last red to be picked, on 9th September, but it has held out thanks to underground springs. Everything exactly where anybody would want it and stays in the mouth for so long. Drink from 2033-2045.
***** (5 stars) 94-96 Jasper Morris MW.
Aromas of dark berries cassis and cherries mingled with spices and orange rind in a complex bouquet introduce the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, a medium to full-bodied, complete wine that in some respects represents the synthesis of the d'Angerville premiers crus—the finesse and perfume of Caillerets, the layers of Taillepieds and the structure of Champans, united in a whole that's more than the sum of its parts.
93-96 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.
The 2023 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru seems to have a different aromatic profile from the other Premier Crus. More introverted at first with darker fruit as well as sea cave and light loamy scents, it takes time to cohere in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip. It is structured with good tension yet more backward and less giving than, say, Champans or Taillepieds at the moment. This is the one cuvée I would cellar for several years before broaching.
93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous.