Peter Maude Fine Wines

2022, Domaine Y. Clerget, POMMARD, 1er Cru, 'Rugiens'

$348

The 2022 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru has a taut and crisp bouquet, the 20% whole bunches neatly integrated, quite understated at first and then expanding in the glass: black cherries, briar and forest floor scents. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant, chiseled tannins. A lovely, elegant, refined Pommard, quite ferrous towards the finish that lingers long in the mouth. Superb. 93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).

30% whole bunch vinification, with three new barrels in twelve. Bright crimson purple, with the new wood showing at the moment on the nose. Some red fruit behind. The quality of the vineyard shows in the intensity on the palate, with a little saline touch behind the deep red fruit. Still quite rugged. **** 92-95 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).

Moderate reduction is enough to overshadow the underlying fruit at present. More interesting are the rich, delicious and beautifully textured and detailed larger-bodied flavours that brim with both minerality and dry extract, all wrapped in a youthfully austere and impressively long finish. This could use better depth but more is certain to develop. 92-94 Allen Meadows, Burghound (2024).

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2048

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