2022, Domaine Paul Avril, CLOS DES PAPES, Rouge, Magnum (1500ml)

The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape is a richly concentrated effort, dark-fruited and loaded with black cherries and blackberries, yet it's not without nuance, as it includes hints of asphalt, truffle and dried spices. Full-bodied (15.4% alcohol), deep and velvety, with a long, softly dusty finish, it looks to be a real beauty, capable of aging up to two decades. 97-99 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate (2023).

A touch less Mourvèdre this year, but not enough to change the profile of the wine, which is fairly classic albeit pretty bombastic in 2022. Raspberry and black cherry, ripe and exuberant. Full but not massive, the alcohol is present, slightly warming the finish. Tannins are a little grainy, so I would give this time to settle before broaching. Succulent and juicy, with a touch of liquorice. Vincent Avril believes the wine could close down quite early on. So drink young, or (even better) wait until 2030. All destemmed, aged in old foudres. 96 Matt Walls, Decanter (2023).

Cask sample. The nose is wonderfully vibrant and fresh, with earthy notes and kirsch, as well as bright strawberry. Great finesse on the palate, with a dense core of liquorice and spice, subtle, peaty whisky notes and fine, detailed, firm tannins. Nice balance of richness and power, with energy as well. Needs a few years. 17.5/20 Alistair Cooper MW (for Jancis Robinson).

Drinking Window: 2025 - 2045