Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Château Lafleur, AOC POMEROL
$1,782.50 inc. GST
Founded by Henri Greloud in 1872, and derived each year from the same small parcel called simply "Lafleur" on the plateau of Pomerol. Château Lafleur is a rare and mythical wine, associating in a singular way power and finesse.
2023 is a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot.
The 2023 Lafleur is one of a small number of contenders for the title of wine of the vintage, and it's one 2023 that appears to surpass its 2022 counterpart. Wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, cherries and plums mingled with hints of liquorice, violets and mint, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a concentrated core of lively, succulent, pure fruit framed by beautifully refined tannins, concluding with a long, fragrant finish. Its exquisite structure, intensity without weight and ineffable harmony mark it out as a great Lafleur, and one that will be worth a special effort to seek out.
98-100 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.
The 2023 Lafleur has a very backward nose at first, only reluctantly opening. Tobacco and touches of shucked oyster shell surface with air. This is a more tertiary bouquet - completely different in style to the neighbouring Pétrus. The palate is very linear and strict, like the nose, fresh with a tincture of dark chocolate and wrapped up with black fruit, black pepper and a touch of tea leaves toward the finish. The Bouchets (Cabernet Franc) is very expressive on the close, and it lingers beautifully. This is not a flamboyant Lafleur - it is very reflective of the growing season, perhaps a more cerebral wine that will be fascinating to observe as it ages. This is one of the few profound wines this vintage, yet it's still a challenge. This is a wine for those who like cryptic crosswords and Pomerol.
97-99 Neal Martin.
Iris and violet flowers greet you on the opening beats, and it's a little more open at this early stage than is sometimes the case with this most profound of wines. Combines deep and creamy cassis and blueberry fruits with pumice-scraping tannins, vibrant and humming through the palate. There are, as ever, hidden depths here that show through the cocoa bean and espresso as it opens up, and this still needs a good 8 to 10 years before reaching its peak.
98 Jane Anson.
The fruit in this is superb, with an al-dente character to the grapes that were perfectly ripe when picked. Surprising openness on the nose, showing blackberries, violet, caramel and cedar with just a hint of chocolate. Turns to tobacco and earth. Medium to full body with creamy tannins and a vivid finish. Pristine through to the end.
98-99 James Suckling.