2021, Domaine de la Vougeraie, VOUGEOT, Monopole, 1er Cru, 'Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot'

This exotic, seductive wine is one of the specialties at Domaine de la Vougeraie. It features ripe pear and peach fruit with smoke, beeswax and floral notes. The texture is dense, with balanced acidity and plenty of extract that lingers on the palate almost like a Corton-Charlemagne. It is produced from the Domaine’s monopole of just over three hectares that is planted to chardonnay with a small admixture of Pinot Beurrot and just a drop of Pinot Blanc. The grapes are farmed biodynamically and pressed as whole clusters. The fermentation starts in tank and finishes in cask (about one-quarter new). 95 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.

33.5 hl/ha is a much better yield than looked likely at first. There was heavy damage on the Clos Vougeot side, but otherwise wind turbines and bougies (candles) helped save the day. Mid yellow. The nose is a little bit biscuity, a reduction on the wood. At the moment that shows most. Quite some weight at the start of the palate, a bit of heat behind and some liquorice notes. The Clos Blanc has not all come together yet but there is clearly a lot of wine here. *** 92-94 Jasper Morris MW.

Always 3 harvests here – top, middle and then the bottom comes last. 33 hl/ha – not bad for a frosty year! Back to the grilled bread and nuts – a vibrancy of aroma here – almost a little spice too. Broad, easy over the palate, concentrated yet mouth-watering. A wine of mineral persistence – great persistence. A wine that always appreciates time in bottle. Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report.