
Peter Maude Fine Wines
2023, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'Champans'
$250.70 inc. GST
The 2023 Champans is one of my favourite wines from this cellar, as it is in many vintages. It offers lush, forward black- and blue-fruit aromas, with hints of flowers, earth and leather. The supple yet supportive tannins and a plump mouthfeel (from the dense extract) lead to a lingering finish. The grapes come from d'Angerville's superb holdings here of almost 4ha. This seductive wine should open in three to five years, and will easily stay at the top of its form for 20 years or more.
95 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter.
The 2023 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has a delineated, intricate bouquet that opens beautifully in the glass. It is surprisingly mineral-driven given the warmth of the season, with the terroir really coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgier tannins compared to the Taillepieds. This finely crafted, quite sapid Champans is fresh with a little more salinity, particularly toward the finish.
93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous.
Bright mid purple. This is stricter on the nose, less ripe at first but with the same rich deep raspberry fruit emerges behind, with an extra burst in the middle of the palate and a slightly more austere finish. Plenty to enjoy here and really very persistent Drink from 2033-2040.
**** 92-95 Jasper Morris MW.
Even in this more charming vintage, the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is the most structured wine in the range, opening up to reveal notes of cherries, berries and peonies, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and broad-shouldered palate built around sweet, powdery tannins. It will reward a bit of patience.
92-94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.