2022, Aile d'Argent 1er Cru Classé, BORDEAUX Blanc

The dry white wine of Mouton Rothschild that has been produced in small quantities since the first vintage in 1991. The vineyard is inland from the château at the edge of the Pauillac appellation but the wine is labelled AC Bordeaux. The 2022 vintage is made from 52% Sauvignon Blanc, 39% Semillon, 8% Sauvignon Gris and 1% Muscadelle. It is being aged in 45% new oak.

Harvested in the month of August, the 2022 Aile d'Argent bursts with aromas of gooseberries, white flowers, lime zest and mango. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's a bright, fleshy Sauvignon Blanc-dominant blend that concludes with a saline finish. 90-92 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.

Gorgeous tropical notes on the nose, pineapple, mango, lemon, fresh but ripe and lively with elderflower, acacia flowers, green apple and citrus fruits. Nicely weighted on the palate. Keeps its coolness, not so tense or necessarily streamlined but generous flavour all the way through. A citrus kick and lift at the end brings the freshness and tang back, with a salinity that is moreish. Joyful and really quite approachable still with weight and texture. 94 Georgina Hindle, Decanter.

So vibrant and minerally with salt and dried apple, peach and pears. Medium to full body. Creamy texture. Some phenolics. Dried fruit skin. Vivid acidity. 96-97 James Suckling.

Don't expect a big production of the white in 2022, as they saw just 16hl/h yields, mainly because Sémillon had such tiny berries, with high skin to juice ratio making things intense and concentrated. Think mango, pineapple, lemongrass, lime and mandarin zest, with a supple texture, with a delicious, and necessary, kick of bitterness on the finish. There has been a migration towards cooler terroir for the whites, still in their own vineyards either in Pauillac or just over appellation boundary. 94 Jane Anson.

The 2022 Aile d'Argent (which has been bottled under Diam 30 since 2017) has a silvery hue. It is a little contained on the nose compared to some other Médoc whites, gradually opening with beeswax and honeysuckle scents. The palate is well balanced, with crisp acidity, an attractive waxy texture thanks to the Sémillon, with a little oiliness toward the finish. Very fine. 89-91 Neal Martin.