2022, Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, PESSAC-LÉOGNAN, Grand Cru Classé des Graves

Bordeaux Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc.

Domaine de Chevalier is run with great care by Olivier Bernard whose family took it over from Claude Ricard in 1983. Domaine de Chevalier performs brilliantly every year now.

Showing how it's done in 2022, Domaine de Chevalier comes in strong with a deep ruby red colour, a vibrant rim, smoked oak on the nose, edges of tar, red roses, liquorice root, and a confident delivery of full-on tannic architecture that frames the cassis and bilberry fruit. Delivers vintage signature in a carefully controlled way, with enough slate, pumice stone, mint and eucalyptus to balance things out and slow down delivery. The fruits are fully ripe, heading towards baked plum and fig, but met step by step with a corresponding cooling flavour. 40th harvest of Olivier Bernard (meaning a special label - see below). 96 Jane Anson.

Wow. This is incredibly structured and powerful with ultra-fine tannins that are tight and layered. It’s full and powerful with carved muscles of tannins. This will need so much time. 98-99 James Suckling.

The medium to full-bodied palate is elegantly styled, with bright, nuanced black and red berry layers beautifully supported by fine-grained tannins and wonderful tension, leading to a very long and perfumed finish on this stunning wine. 96-98 Lisa Perrotti-Brown.

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier soars from the glass with take-no-prisoner aromatics: perfumed mineral-rich red berry fruit, incense and black truffle. Pessac-like earthiness with an opposing airiness defines many a great wine from this estate. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins. Slightly powdery in texture and saline in the mouth, this gets the saliva flowing. However, the arching structure on the finish suggests it will require considerable bottle age. Cellar this for a couple of decades, and you'll be repaid handsomely. 95-97 Neal Martin, Vinous.

The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier is a powerhouse. I don’t remember tasting anything like it. Black cherry, plum, graphite, liquorice and spic add to an impression of virile intensity. Readers should expect to play the long game, as the tannins are pretty imposing at this stage. That has been the case each of the four times I have tasted the 2022 so far. 93-96 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.

Drinking Window: 2034 - 2075