Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Domaine Chandon de Briailles, PERNAND-VERGELESSES, 1er Cru, 'Ile de Vergelesses'
$158.70 inc. GST
The 2022 Pernand-Vergelesses Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru came directly from a barrel that had not been racked. This explains why it is quite backward on the nose, with touches of blackberry and bilberry, quite a heightened marine influence, and hints of oyster shell coming through with time. The medium-bodied palate has impressive volume and fine tannins, a little fleshier than Chandon des Briailles' other cuvées with a bright, slightly peppery finish. This is contemporary Pernand firing on all cylinders. 92-94 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).
Always the insider's choice at this address, the 2022 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile de Vergelesses unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet cherries and plums mingled with rose petals and liquorice. Medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a fleshy core of fruit that nicely cloaks its fine but chalky structuring tannins, it exhibits excellent potential. 92-94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2024).
Still in barrel, unracked. The holding, three hectares planted to pinot, consists of one hectare of old vines from 1961, the rest mostly 30 to 40 years old. There is a little more density to the colour, and certainly a most profound bouquet which shows more classical fruit and less the effects of vinifying with whole bunches. 15% new wood shows a little in its extreme youth. A spicy dark fruited finish. Very good. **** 91-93 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).
An overtly floral-suffused array speaks of violet, rose petal, lilac, humus and a plethora of red berries. The rich, succulent and concentrated larger-scaled flavours brim with an almost pungent minerality while displaying focused power on the compact, serious, austere and impressively long finale. Patience absolutely necessary. 91-93 Allen Meadows, Burghound (2024).
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2042