2016, Vivaltus, SPAIN

Blend: Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2016 Vivaltus is the first vintage of this 100% Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, made with the assistance of Bordeaux winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet, a noteworthy collaboration. Garnet-red in hue. Undergrowth, plum and blueberry hints, wrapped in a cedar frame, complement mint and menthol aromas. The dry, juicy palate shows finely-grained tannins and a polished texture that precedes an alluring, long-lasting, balsamic finish. This is a nuanced Ribera wine made in an elegant style. 95 Joaquín, Vinous (2023).

The eponymous 2016 Vivaltus was really impressive. I was already amazed at the un-bottled sample, and the finished wine seems even better! It's a blend of Tempranillo with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, mostly from old vines. It fermented in stainless steel with neutral yeasts and aged for around 12 months in French barriques, 20% of them new. But there's no oak in the nose, which is ethereal and perfumed, elegant and nuanced, with notes of violets, wild berries and herbs. The palate shows ultra-refined tannins and comes through as beautifully textured, with a fine, chalky minerality, very good precision, clean and focused flavours and a long, tasty finish. This is really amazing. 16,000 bottles were filled in July 2018. Prices had not yet been set, but when I first tasted it some 16 months ago, they were talking about something around $150... 96 Luis Gutiérrez, Wine Advocate (2019).

What a debut! Even given the distinguished track record of Bordeaux-based consultant Jean-Claude Berrouet, this is a remarkable wine that is part of a welcome new trend in Ribera del Duero. Elegant and refreshing, it has very fine tannins, floral top notes, subtle oak and just a hint of leafiness from 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Releasing the wine through the Place de Bordeaux with five years of age gives you some idea of the ambition that owner Yllera has for this superb cuvée. 97 Tim Atkin MW, Decanter (2021).

Floral on the nose with cedar, blackcurrants, fragrant cherries and sweet spices. Tense and direct on the palate, super linear but clean with a charred smokiness - gun-smoke, flint and caramel toast so you get spice and minerality with the fruit just taking a bit of a backseat at the moment. Beautiful precision though, streamlined and well worked with velvety tannins. Still very much on the youthful side. 91 Georgina Hindle, Decanter (2022).

Drinking Window: 2023 - 2026