2023, Maison Benjamin Leroux, BÂTARD-MONTRACHET, Grand Cru

Three barrels. Two thirds new wood, in the form of one 456-litre barrel. Pale colour, with at first sight or rather sniff a fair amount of oak showing. But the fruit doesn't take long to emerge. Orchard fruit with wonderful but well-honed intensity, the oak quickly disappearing from sight or rather taste. Correct acidity and a tannic base help to make this a wine for significant keeping. Very classy in all departments! Drink from 2032-2042. Tasted Oct 2024. **** 95-97 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.

The 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with a touch of menthol. The Corton-Charlemagne has a little more complexity. The palate is lightly honeyed on the entry with fine acidity, although it doesn't quite kick on as I wish it would. It is a little conservative. 90-92 Neal Martin.