2022, Château Haut-Brion PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 1er Grand Cru Classé de Graves

Bordeaux Blend: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

One of the world's greatest and most individual wine estates. The family traditions continue here with Jean-Philippe Delmas running the wine-making as his father and grandfather did before him and Clarence Dillon's great-grandson Robert de Luxembourg in overall charge of this wonderful property. Haut Brion is one of the most consistently great wines of Bordeaux. 2022 is a blend of 54% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc.

The 2022 Haut-Brion, matured in 70% new oak, represents the 99th vintage under three generations of the Delmas family. It has slightly darker fruit than the La Mission at the moment. Incense and potpourri infuse the black plum and bilberry. There's a touch of brine in the background. It manifests more and more complexity as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and is blessed with unerring symmetry. It has a bewitching granular texture, complex and more focused than recent vintages, and comes across as almost pixelated on the finish. Quintessential Haut-Brion. Magnificent. 96-98 Neal Martin, Vinous.

Deep garnet-purple in colour, the 2022 Haut-Brion is typically closed and broody, requiring a lot of shaking to wake up enticing notes of iron ore, red roses, lavender, mint tea, and forest floor, leading to a tantalizing core of plum preserves and blueberry pie. The medium to full-bodied palate is very tightly knit with vibrant black and blue fruit layers and red berry sparks, framed by very fine-grained tannins and a refreshing backbone, finishing long and minerally. A classic, breath-taking expression of Haut-Brion, I expect this to remain shy and restrained for the first 10 years so in bottle, and then watch it soar. 97-99+ Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW

Stately, inky colour, this is impressively vivid and energetic despite the intensity of the construction. Fresh fig character, black chocoate, cinnammon, turmeric, creamy bilberry and blackberry fruits, with clove and sandalwood spice, and a slow build of texture and contrast from the slate tannins as they draw out the flavours. Less Cabernet Sauvignon than usual due to tiny yields. 96 Jane Anson.

Currants and cedar with sandalwood and peaches. Fascinating aromas. Violets. Full-bodied with a crunchy and electric palate of primary fruit, with hints of tangerines and citrus. Great finish with structure and polish. Interesting to have such high merlot in the blend. 98-99 James Suckling.

Drinking Window: 2030 - 2065