2021, Château Troplong Mondot, SAINT-ÉMILION, 1er Grand Cru Classé

Bordeaux Blend: Cabernet Franc, Merlot.

The property was sold in the summer of 2017 and Aymeric de Gironde (formerly of Pichon Baron and Cos d'Estournel) was brought in by the new owners to take charge. There have been massive and revolutionary changes here, as we expected. Aymeric is to applauded for his radical re-styling of Troplong Mondot and the return to a classic and pure St Emilion style. Farr Vintners.

Aymeric de Gironde, who without exaggeration has revolutionised this Saint-Émilion estate, told me that in 2021, the Troplong-Mondot comes exclusively from the heart of the original vineyard, mainly on molasse soils. The focused blackberry, raspberry and iris petal scented nose is very delineated, yet more reserved than recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly chalky tannins and a fine bead of acidity that imports liveliness and verticality. This Troplong-Mondot is imbued with a palpably mineral-driven finish. I am full of admiration for this cerebral wine, though I wager that it will need several years in bottle. 93-95 Neal Martin.

The natural density that they have at Troplong was extremely helpful in a vintage like 2021. This is a little more reserved than a typical year, but very much delivers signature power. Expect guns-moke, fern and raspberry leaf alongside cherry pit and saffron salinity, black cherry fruits, rosebud, anis, fennel spice, all with the powerful and concentrated signature of limestone. I was here on the last day of harvest, and I remember how healthy the grapes were. 95 Jane Anson.

Lovely density here with a solid centre-palate of fruit and fine tannins. Medium body. Underlying salinity and oyster-shell character in the finish. Well defined. 95-96 James Suckling.

The 2021 Troplong Mondot shows considerable promise, exhibiting aromas of plums and wild berries mingled with notions of sweet spices, rose petals, vine smoke and raw cocoa, followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless palate endowed with impressive intensity and texture. Built around beautifully refined, powdery tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, mouthwateringly saline finish. 93-96 William Kelley.