2022, Château Calon-Ségur, SAINT-ESTÈPHE

Bordeaux Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot (1%)

This classic 3rd growth château has one of the greatest terroirs of Bordeaux. Since the sale of this 55 hectare property to French insurance company Suravenir by the Gasqueton family, there has been huge investment in - and modernisation of - the wine-making facilities. There's also been much work done in the vineyards. 2022 blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot.

The 2022 Calon-Ségur is another superb wine from this historic Saint-Estèphe third growth that began a comprehensive renaissance the better part of a decade ago. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberries mingled with hints of fresh mint, burning embers, liquorice and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, supple tannins and a long, saline finish. 96-98 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.

The 2022 Calon-Ségur has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, cedar and subtle tobacco scents. The 2022 is tight at first but opens with aeration (winemaker Vincent Millet remarked how the wine was much more expressive the week I tasted it in mid-April compared to the previous week). The palate is classically styled with impressive mid-palate depth. With strict tannins and multi-layered graphite-infused black fruit, this is reminiscent of some postwar Calon-Ségur's I have tasted. 94-96 Neal Martin, Vinous.

This is powerful, underlining how much last year's more softly sculpted wine was a departure from recent vintages of Calon, and back in my mind to the complicated 2018 vintage, where it was overly marked by the heat of the vintage. This is full on concentrated fruit, with strong tannins that build through the palate. Plenty of complexity with black truffles, cassis, olive paste, sandalwood and fresh mint on the finish, along with cloves and cinnamon spice. 94 Jane Anson.

A very juicy red with redcurrant and creme de cassis as well as hints of nutmeg and cloves. It's full and polished with very pretty tannins that show length and focus. Traditional and typical for Calon with the tannin structure. A little closed today. But serious structure. 95-96 James Suckling.

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2055