Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Maison Benjamin Leroux, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'Santenots'
Containing just over one-third whole bunches, the 2022 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru was the first vineyard to be picked. The focused nose offers fine mineralité and tension. The palate is well defined with dark berry fruit. Slightly grainy in texture with good backbone and a slightly confit-like finish, this is an excellent Santenots. 92-94 Neal Martin, Vinous (2023).
According to Benjamin Leroux, his Volnay Santenots is 'full-on,' referring to the notes of iron that the clay from this vineyard gives to the fruit. However, there is also elegance and finesse to this wine that are genuinely charming. The wine opens with ripe plum and currant notes and hints of earth and leather. The texture is more tannic and full-bodied than previous vintages, but this should be drinking well in a few years. 93 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter (2023).
A fine deeper purple. The Santenots needs picking before the whites these days, but even so has touched 14%. It shows in the sensuality of the wine but there is no sign of heat. The fruit is on the cusp of red and black, a little vanilla from the oak, and a slightly lower acidity. *** 90-92 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).
Drinking Window: 2026 - 2045