Peter Maude Fine Wines

2022, Domaine Bruno Clair, MARSANNAY, 'Les Grasses Têtes'

$106

An intense ruby purple. More concentration of the intense raspberry strawberry fruit. The Grasses Têtes is much tighter on the palate with a certain tannic austerity but such a concentration of fruit. Strawberry and raspberry together, definitely both dense and structured, will hold back until June before bottling. **** 91-93 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy.

A more deeply pitched nose somewhat grudgingly reveals notes of plum, earth, wild dark currant and a hint of forest floor. The rich and succulent yet decidedly powerful larger-bodied flavours deliver fine length on the compact, serious and lingering finale that flirts with rusticity. Grasses Têtes always gives big serious wines and the 2022 version will be no exception. 89-92 Burghound.

The most serious of these four cuvées is the 2022 Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes, a medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated wine evocative of blackberries, plums and dark chocolate. More primary at this stage in its élevage, it shows considerable promise. 90-91 William Kelley, Wine Advocate.

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2032

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