2018, Vivaltus, Ribera Del Duero, SPAIN

It may be a little premature to review this 2018, but make sure you remind yourself to buy a case on release. It's the polar opposite of the big, ripe, overwooded styles of Ribera. Nuanced, refined and hauntingly balanced, with perfumed oak, lovely texture and balance, leafy, graphite-like complexity and the length of a world-class wine.  98 Tim Atkin, Decanter.

Muscular, slate hewn tannins, this has a rugged quality where nothing is overpowered by oak and yet it hugs the palate, making its presence felt. Serious tannic architecture that softens through the mid palate to show creamy raspberry and red cherry fruits, spiced aniseed, fennel and liquorice root, sinewy tannins, totally moreish. Aged in 25% new oak, 10% amphora, and the rest in neutral barrels. Jean-Claude and Jeff Berrouet consultants, with winemaker Montxo Martinez and owners Marcos and Carlos Yllera. Old vine Tempranillo, including some dating right back to pre-Phylloxera, sat at between 750m and 1000m altitude, from a selection of their own vines, and those of local growers. 95 Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux.