2019, Domaine Ponsot, CORTON, Cuvée du Bourdon, Grand Cru

A brooding and decidedly reluctant nose features a plethora of Corton-like elements including wild red berries, underbrush, earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The medium weight flavours are at once rich yet reasonably precise and more mineral-driven before culminating in a muscular and solidly complex if firmly structured and youthfully austere finale. This is definitely firm, but the supporting tannins are already well-integrated. 91-93 Burghound.

Paulands, Clos du Roi, Perriéres (a half, a quarter and a quarter, respectively). This wine is fermented at slightly lower temperatures, a technique which has worked well on the Chapelle-Chambertin. Mid crimson, this is rather oakier than the Morey wines. It starts discreetly then builds to significant weight with a little bit of a crunch behind. *** 90-93 Jasper Morris MW.

The 2019 Corton Grand Cru Cuvée du Bourdon is especially promising this year, delivering a complex bouquet of red berries, raw cocoa, rose petals and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, layered and lively, it's vibrant and concentrated, with powdery tannins and a saline finish. 92-94 William Kelley.