2021, Domaine Samuel Billaud, CHABLIS, 1er Cru, 'Montée de Tonnerre'

The 2021 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru, vinified the same as the Mont de Milieu, has another "serious" backward, saline nose, almost with a slight seaweed scent. Fine acidity in the mouth, the palate is well balanced and very focused with hints of orange rind and apricot rendering it a little more consumer-friendly than the Mont de Milieu. Superb. 93-95 Neal Martin, Vinous. 

From upper Chapelot and the central triangle of Montée de Tonnerre itself, with 20% wood. Pale colour with a lime green edge. The bouquet has barely started singing here, but the wine soars on the palate with that sunny generosity of fruit before the crunch of the kimmeridgian fossils. The two sides are beautifully integrated. This wine has a terrific backbone which leaves a clinically dry aftertaste. Really fine. ***** (5 stars) 93-95 Jasper Morris MW. 

Strong notes of mineral reduction largely dominate the more floral-suffused aromas of green apple and iodine. The suave and succulent medium-bodied flavours also coat the palate with dry extract on the refined, pure and focused finish that displays excellent length. This very classy effort will need at least some patience as it's presently quite compact. Lovely stuff. Sweet Spot Outstanding. 92-94 Burghound. 

2 parcels of 40 and 45-year-old vines: the top of Chapelots, other at the top of the triangle. Like the last with 20% barrel elevage. The first nose is multi-dimensional - deep, broad, high-tones too - wow - we talk a little and I return to a calmer aromatic. Volume like the MdM but a little more mineral intensity supporting the rest of the flavours here - an accent of reduction to the more forward but delicious minerality. Bill Nanson. 

Aromas of citrus zest, oyster shell, clear honey, white flowers and green apple introduce the 2021 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive wine built around tangy acids and chalky dry extract. This taut, structured wine will delight Chablis purists. 93 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2023).

Drinking Window: 2025 - 2032