Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Domaine Darviot-Perrin, CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET, 1er Cru, 'Les Bondues'
$125
"Les Bondues" is a small, prestigious, eastern-facing Premier Cru vineyard located 100 yards south of Montrachet. Bondues is a lieu-dit within Chenevottes. The Darviots are the only vignerons to have Pinot Noir in this particular vineyard.
A very deep purple, almost black. There is a huge depth of dark raspberry fruit here, a little bit of oak at the back of the palate, and Pierre-Antonin has succeeded, as he hoped, in not extracting any rough tannins. These are ancient vines which may explain the slightly off-putting colour, but the wine itself works very well. Drink from 2028-2035.
**** 90-92 Jasper Morris MW