Peter Maude Fine Wines
2022, Domaine Joannès Violot-Guillemard, POMMARD, 1er Cru, 'Rugiens'
The 2022 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens is excellent, wafting from the glass with aromas of plums and raspberries mingled with exotic spices, orange zest and petals. Medium to full-bodied, rich and velvety, its textural attack segues into an unctuous core of fruit, concluding with a long, expansive finish. 93-94 William Kelley, Wine Advocate (2024).
Joannès Violot-Guillemard describes his 0.45 hectares of Rugiens as 'Rugiens-Haut, but next to Rugiens-Bas'. It is the only parcel planted against the slope; one-third of the grapes are now trained on stakes (echalas) and grown without trimming. The rest is classically trained. The vines have given a superb result in 2022, with expressive ripe cherry and pomegranate wine and a texture that is silky and supple but very persistent. There is not a lot of colour, but there is huge potential here. This wine should be ready to drink fairly soon after release and will undoubtedly last for decades ? impressive wine. 95 Charles Curtis MW, Decanter (2023).
This has been racked unlike the others. Clearly a bigger build here, still with some of the white pepper and spice. This has a majestic yet balanced wealth of fruit, full bodied, with a fine long finish. The various red berry fruits keep washing back. Super in this exuberant whole bunch style. **** 92-95 Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy (2023).
An even spicier if moderately timid nose reluctantly offers up its perfumed aromas of plum, black raspberry and a whiff of rose petal. I very much like the sense of underlying tension to the relatively refined middleweight flavours that possess very good mid-palate volume as well as good depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This intensely mineral-driven effort is excellent though like all competent examples of Rugiens, it's definitely built for extended keeping. 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound (2024).
Drinking Window: 2025 - 2055