2023, Bibi Graetz, Colore Bianco, TOSCANA

100% Ansonica from the Pietrabona Vineyard on the Island of Giglio,

Textured and structured, with initially reserved aromatics that, as with last year's vintage, really uncurl after 24 hours in fridge, or at least a good few hours in a carafe. Beautifully layered poached pear and peach pit, sage, dried herbs, white pepper, emphasis less on fruits than minerality and an oyster shell saline finish, with flinty juiciness. Bibi Graetz owner and winemaker, 8ha vineyard.
95 Jane Anson.

Colore Bianco is from a single vineyard on Giglio, the rocky, south-facing Pietrabona. It's more floral and breezy than Testamatta – with aromas of Mediterranean herbs, apricot skin and some lees – and in the mouth it's more savoury: olives, capers and herbs all come to the fore. Vertical, saline and textured, it has a stony profile with more concentration than Testamatta, and its subtle lemon peel and apple mid-palate lends complexity. Delicious.
94 James Button, Decanter

Made with the Ansonica grape from a special vineyard site in the Pietrabuona valley on this rustic Tuscan island, the Bibi Graetz 2023 Isola del Giglio Colore Bianco offers a pretty bouquet with peach, orange peel, sea salt and baked apple. The wine is soft and textured with mild acidity. Bibi says he did not experience problems with fungal diseases in 2023 on Giglio island. Those issues were very problematic in the rest of Italy.
94 Monica Larner, Wine Advocate.