2023, Domaine de la Vougeraie, BÂTARD-MONTRACHET, Grand Cru

The 2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru takes a little coaxing from the glass, eventually revealing popcorn and white peach scents. It is perhaps missing a little mineralité at the moment. The palate is crisp on the entry with a citric thread of acidity and fine concentration, lightly spiced if just a little primal and lacking some amplitude on the finish. Not bad, but it could be better. 90-92 Neal Martin, Vinous (2024).

Pale lemon yellow, evidently with weight to follow but not showing much. Up comes the oak. Grand cru density but this doesn’t quite fill its boots the way the other grands crus and the Clos Blanc do. A little touch of banana then citrus, then good acidity. *** 93-95 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (2024).

Drinking Window: 2027 - 2039