2023, Maison Benjamin Leroux, VOLNAY, 1er Cru, 'Clos de la Cave des Ducs'

Fresh mid purple. A little bit of a reductive gaminess, which blows off, though leaving a bit of reductive tension behind, alongside a fine boned but persistent raspberry fruit. Awkward at this stage but should grow from here. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Oct 2024. *** 90-92 Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.

The 2023 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs 1er Cru contains around 10% whole bunch. This articulates more terroir and Pinot expression than to the slightly ripe Mitans. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, fine tannins, crisp acidity and a hint of orange rind on the finish. This is promising. 91-93 Neal Martin.