
Peter Maude Fine Wines
Bibi Graetz, Colore, TOSCANA 20th Anniversary Vertical x6 bottle box
Bibi Graetz Collector's Edition Colore (100% Sangiovese) 6 bottle box contains 2003, 2008, 2015, 2016, 2018, and 2019 vintage.
2003: In Italy as well as elsewhere in Europe, this was the hottest summer in over a century. Some rain in early September saved the day. Nonetheless this does show some baked aromas of blackberry and cherry compote. Sumptuous and full-bodied, lush and and powerful, this is undeniably extracted with hefty tannins. It's a mighty wine but it does lack polish and finesse. Quite long and by no means over the hill despite moderate acidity. 92/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2008: A late ripening year and rain at harvest meant sorting was essential, but potential quality was high. The nose is remarkable for its elegance, with sweet, ripe toasty black-cherry aromas. It's fresh and sleek rather than super-concentrated and has a welcome lightness of touch. This is graceful and highly drinkable yet with pronounced tannins too. Perhaps it lacks some structure and weight but it's very attractive, with a piquant finish. 92/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2015: The persistent heat that marked the summer in Tuscany was interrupted by welcome rain in late August. Graetz's change of approach, aiming for more Sangiovese in the blend and thus more elegance, is apparent here. The nose is cherry-scented, gentle and elegant with considerable delicacy. Medium-bodied, the wine is smaller-framed than some others but it's still concentrated, and shows moderate acidity and invigorating spiciness. Yet the finish lacks a little drive, although there is ample tannic support. Quite long. 92/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2016: A very fine vintage with enough rain to refresh the vines during a warm growing season. A deep warm colour, reflected in the ripe and opulent nose, packed with succulent fruit but not overblown. Rich and fleshy, this is very concentrated and powerful, and although assertive, the tannins are far from tough, and there's admirable freshness on the finish. Long. This will go the distance. 94/100 Stephen Brook, Decanter.
2018: As with Testamatta, there is a deliciously savoury edge to the spiced raspberry and plum fruits. A beautiful wine combining high acidity and sculpting freshness with concentrated liquorice and feathered tannic hold. A juicy, subtly-layered finish has grip and persistency. Both Bibi Graetz wines stop you in your tracks. Grapes selected from three different vineyards, each one harvested up to eight times to ensure picking only at full ripeness, with vines at least 70 years old. 97/100 Jane Anson, Decanter.
2019: The ‘dream’ in Italian, this is from very old, high-altitude vineyards on stony soils mixed with sand and stone. This is one of the wines of the tasting, a real showstopper that captures your interest and holds it all the way. Red cherries and strawberries dominate the nose with softly-spiced liquorice touches. But it’s the texture that’s so captivating, gripping straight away and holding you there, but in a soft and gentle way. Bright acidity comes in keeping things fresh and welcoming while the structure and length give a lovely roundness. A real success. Grapes for Colore are sourced from three vineyards, with each harvested up to eight times. After the first selection in the vineyards, a second selection occurs at the winery before destemming where grapes are softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques, keeping each plot and parcel separate from the others. The fermentation is conducted naturally by indigenous yeasts without temperature control lasting up to two weeks, with one extra week of maceration on the skins. After the fermentation the wine is moved into new barriques, where the malolactic fermentation happens. Each parcel is aged separately for almost 20 months before the final blend is decided. 98/100 Georgina Hindle, Decanter.